So first off, she wants to know HOW it got its name. So next week, in part two of this series, I’m going to a plantation to find out. Free State of Jones You may not drink plantation tea and think slavery or think, but what it does is there's an unconscious comfort. I asked similar questions to everyone I spoke with. “Especially in [Plantation’s] association with much graver images and dark realities of the past.”. It was frustrating. This episode features conversations with the following individuals: Chef Vinnie Carbone - owner of Carbone’s Ristorante (formerly Southern Plantation Restaurant). It just created a sense of awkwardness for her as a young white man. Tom Gumhold - retired owner of the Plantation Supper Club in Wisconsin (recently closed), Anne Butler - owner of the Butler Greenwood Plantation Bed & Breakfast, MaryAnn Dwyer - owner of The Beach House Kitchen blog, Britton Thrice and Ruthie Frierson - current publisher + creator of the Junior League of New Orleans Plantation CookbookÂ. And Professor Cox says that’s making white folks in the north very anxious. B. Osayi Endolyn: Right now, no. But as you heard, eight white folks using plantation branding in food did talk with us. Lots of food is what I envision when I hear plantation. But, the history of that imagery is one of white marketers trying to appeal to white consumers. ” was released. I don't think that you meant it this way, but I'm curious just to unpack a little bit. Others haven’t. I don't know what that says about our culture, that we don't want to acknowledge or we don't want to focus on or we don't want to admit this aspect of our country's history. The most generous idea that I have around that is something pastoral, this sense of an open agrarian idea but I'm really reaching. Osayi Endolyn: I haven't been to the rum bar yet, I just checked in, but they claim this particular bar has vintages of rum that aren't available any place else in the world, so I'm going to investigate this. This is Britton Thrice. B. I mean I thought it was just graceful when these things were done and I protested. Cocke's Bremo Plantation lay about 25 miles from Charlottesville. I would love to be wrong. The official website for the rum tells the story of a man named "Sam" who traveled to London from Guyana with a ship full his rum to sell. Dan Pashman: Okay. Let's move a little bit beyond specifically the word plantation and think of it more as an issue of plantation imagery an image of the old south that has been ingrained in all of us, including in me. Up until a year or two ago if I heard the word plantation in food someone offered me a dish of plantation chicken or a nice glass of plantation mint tea, that word plantation would immediately conjure for me an image of this old South home with the big white pillars the columns in front and the big wraparound porch. I want to know how you feel I want to know what you’ve been through so we don’t repeat things in the future. The other side of that coin is some marketing pitches work better than others, some marketing pitches last longer than others. This is Osayi Endolyn. Oh man, this daiquiri is firing on all cylinders, let me tell you. ... though the racist laws at the time allowed him and others to … The Hopefield Plantation is one of the oldest surviving sugar plantations on the island still producing rum for export. How could I get actually 40 something years old in America and it never would have occurred to me until a black person pointed it out to me that the word plantation has a negative connotation? We’ll link to all of Osayi’s work at Sporkful dot com. I totally lapped you on this cocktail. After Osayi discovers plantation rum in that bar in Nashville, she decides to write a piece about it. And so, what are your thoughts? However, the advent of the eighteenth century was also a transformative time for one of the central agricultural products of the Enlightenment era: sugar. She orders the pineapple rum drink, the bartender mixes it all up, and brings it over.Â. That's what talking about race used to feel like for me. He invested substantially in this estate using money generated by the sugar and rum from his family’s Jamaican plantations. Tell me about the name of the dish, because you said that you created this, so you gave it its name on your website. She’s a food writer and friend of the show. Until next time I’m Dan Pashman. I was like, "Oh no this is really good. Coffee. I'll say something a certain way and realize it, "Oh the way that I said that was like as in my head I was only talking to white people." Anne: I really don’t enjoy this conversation. Bigelow Plantation Mint. HBO’s ‘Gone with the Wind,’ for pro-confederate propagandas. Even I believe the word Rum comes from Rumney and Llanrumney which was a connection to where he came from So she decides to try it. KAREN: Well that's interesting because I was listening to your description of that and I didn't hear you once say and you were being served by an African-American.Â. Now, back to Me and Osayi in Crown Heights over a couple glasses of Plantation rum. I'm at this hotel, they have a rum bar here of course. And maybe there are people that are smarter people than me that can make real curriculum to teach the entirety of the times. The sociologist Edgar T. Thompson, in selected papers published in Plantation Societies, Race Relations, and the South (1975), provides a rigorous analysis of some of the distinguishing aspects of the plantation as a unit of production. “It’s Plantation. Even in the early 1700’s, there were many people who opposed the practice of slavery in the eighteenth century on the sugar plantation. He explained to me that for him, plantation as a French man is plantation, which la plantation translates to basically a farm, so you take people at their word. Plantation Rum to change name. OK, back to the show, and let’s pick up with my conversation with Professor Karen Cox, who you started to hear before the break. Most brand names reflect some aspect of rum’s history, from pirates and seafaring to the island-based locations of distilleries themselves. This is a great budget rum for people who don’t want to sacrifice taste just because money’s a little tight. That brand name, Plantation, also bothered Osayi. This is a good beat that you’ve stumbled into here Osayi. This is Blair Lonergan, she runs a food blog called The Seasoned Mom. Now, as Black Lives Matters protests have become some of the largest in history, Plantation Rum is just one example of a company rethinking how it uses racist imagery and words in its own brands. There was a handful of other people of color.  I was one of the very few Jewish kids, I mean it was overwhelmingly white Christian town. I don't know that that absolves anything, but it was helpful to have a conversation. I mean I don't think anyone should forget and I'm not trying to forget and I don't think any of us should ever try to forget what happened and what it was like for people who worked on plantations. These investments in the production of rum enable us to secure the supply and quality of these two major terroirs, Barbados (where rum was invented in the 17th century) and Jamaica. PSYCHE: All I can think about and all I can see is at some point or either side of me women, men, children as young as maybe three or four were out there possibly under the lash and under the threat of being beaten, killed, having your family members sold away. The Hopefield Plantation is one of the oldest surviving sugar plantations on the island still producing rum for export. If you connected with this episode and think other people might appreciate it, I hope you’ll share it on social media and tag The Sporkful. She has a recipe there for Old Virginia Plantation Spoon Bread. If you watch Gone with the Wind that's what you see. Just media over the years and reading books and imagining it in your head, Blaire:  The cozy scenes that you see in cookbooks, Yeah, I think of Gone with the Wind plantations and stuff like that. Thanks so much for making time for us today. In the food world, the word plantation pops up a lot. The bottle features a man seated on a rum hogshead, playing the sort of drum that was banned during the days of slavery. ... though the racist laws at the time allowed him and others to … PSYCHE: Now that’s a very interesting question. Plantation Grand Reserve is an extremely versatile rum, mixing well with plenty of syrups, juices, and fruits. In last week’s show I talk with Claire Saffitz, star of the hit YouTube series, Gourmet Makes. In 2007, Glasgow Built Preservation Trust (GBPT), in partnership with Glasgow Anti Racist Alliance, developed an exhibition linking Glasgow’s built heritage with the slave trade. And how would most white Americans react?Â. There were 75 films in the 1930s that were set on the plantation or in the plantation south. I appreciate that. Daily Life on a Colonial Plantation A London Hanging, 1726 George Washington's Rules of Good Behavior Passage To America, 1750 Captured by Indians, 1758 Plantation Rum Guyana Old Reserve 1990 By S. Irene Virbila ... As the country grapples with the role of systemic racism, The Times has committed to examining its past. © 2009-2020 The Sporkful. It must be flavorful. He publishes the Junior League of New Orleans Plantation Cookbook, which first came out in 1972. Look at human history, people were in bondage longer and harder, and that's not saying what happened was right, but let's just move on. Even before Gone with the Wind was even an idea in Margaret Mitchell's head, you have an image of the south that is leisurely, that is wealthy, and in which blacks play the role of servant. Well, I'm not making any promises Osayi. Just immediately like, "Ah, this is uncomfortable, ah, I'm going to screw this up, and I really, really think I'm probably using the wrong words for this, so I really think we should just change the subject because I'm pretty sure I'm going to offend someone, and then they're going to think that I'm racist.". Discover Plantation rums, which are the « Grands Crus » of rum from the Caribbean. ... we know the plantation he had in Jamaica was called Llanrumney. Blair: There are two very different ways of looking at a simple word. They just saw this big pillared white mansion horse and buggy and people all dressed up. I’ll tell you who they all are, but first I just want you to get a feel for the conversations.Â. My thanks to food writer Osayi Endolyn. A patron nearby exclaims "Hey look, a talking parrot!" The basic message: You may not have a black servant, but if you buy this pancake mix, it’s the next best thing. We met up in a bar in Crown Heights, Brooklyn a while back… so she could tell me this story. That’s next week. How are you? It doesn't indicate certain spices or cooking methods. And how white people in America use it.Â. In the 1860s, when northern workers feared the competition from freed slaves. East Anglian Patriots (EAP) protested against plans to build a mosque in Lincoln. What did ships from New England carry to West Africa ? Then he realizes, "Oh yeah, parrots can talk." A post shared by Plantation Rum (@plantation.rum), Post Malone Tells Us About His New ‘Celebrity World Pong League’ Show And His Upcoming Music, ‘The Flight Attendant’ Is So Much Freaking Fun, Looking Back At The Dubious Legacy Of ‘Deliverance,’ The Original Hillbilly Elegy, ‘The Undoing’ Star And ‘Paddington’ Villain Hugh Grant Tells Us His Theory On Why Actors Love To Be Bad, Author/Historian Thomas Frank On Why The Democratic Party Needs To Reclaim Populism From Republicans, Iraqi-Canadian MC Narcy Explains The Danger Of Internet Deep Fakes, Master Brewer Jaega Wise On Getting More Women Into The Beer Industry And Brewing During A Pandemic, Trader Joe’s Wines That Nail The Combination Of Taste And Value, Every Sneaker From The Adidas ‘Mandalorian’ Collection, Ranked, We Tasted, Critiqued, And Ranked Every Item On Taco Bell’s Menu, MyCover: Killian Hayes Followed His Own Path, Chris Bosh And The Drone Racing League Are Motivated To Promote Diversity In STEM, Anthony Davis Tells Us What He Learned From His First Championship With The Lakers, Talib Kweli & Papoose Talk Prison, His Infamous Jive Deal, Remy Ma, & Violator, Nascar Aloe’s ‘I Throw A Fit’ Performance For ‘UPROXX Sessions’ Lives Up To The Title, Lil Keed, NLE Choppa, And More React To Busta Rhymes’ Classic ‘Put Your Hands Where My Eyes Could See’ Video, HUF’s Keith Hufnagel In His Final Video Interview — From NYC Skater To Streetwear Icon, All The Best New Indie Music From This Week, All The Best New Pop Music From This Week, All The Best New Music From This Week That You Need To Hear, All The Best New R&B From This Week That You Need To Hear. That’s stupidity. "Enslavement and the slave economy was the road for upward mobility for a lot of white Bostonians in the colonial era, and then the antebellum era. Yeah. ... and held connections to virtually all the major absentee plantation owners in Britain. How do we put together this episode? Some plantations have been repurposed by the descendants of those enslaved there. Read more here. OSAYI: I was in a bar in Nashville and I was looking at their cocktail menu, and one of the drinks had the spirit listed, and it was pineapple rum. And so for that to happen, the people receiving the marketing have to really like it. And when that question is posited, when that seed is planted, it's very unsettling because it literally goes to the core of who you believe you are.Â. That is all you need. Oh, well I think it's too late for that. My read at the moment was that telling me speaking to a black customer like, "I have to tell you that this brand of this rum that you're asking about is called plantation." I think that to some, so I can imagine that some white listeners at least, I'm not going to speak for all listeners would just be surprised. Much like Kentucky bourbon, Caribbean rum has its very foundations in African slavery. What are you drinking Osayi? What do you think your grandmother especially loved about Colonial Williamsburg?Â, She had this kind of fascination with southern culture, and historical colonial Virginia. In there you also heard Mary Ann Dwyer, who runs the Beach House Kitchen blog, she has a recipe there for Plantation Crunch. Commercial Window Covering Specialists since 1995. Industry was just grinding people down, and they longed for a place that was American where things were easier. We got 8 people who are using or have used the word plantation in food – all of them white – to talk with us. Explain why the plantation system encouraged the growth of slavery. Osayi, I'm going to try to set out to find some white people to talk to, to be as blunt as possible, that's where I'm going. It’s a truly international brand with an 80 country reach, making this shift a far-reaching move sure to make waves across the industry. All right. Covering approximately the years 1827–1837, an illegitimate son of an Irish aristocratic family comes to America. It’s on land that’s been in Annie’s family since it was a working plantation, when her family owned enslaved people.Â. TV chefs Andrew Zimmern and Rachael Ray also turned us down.Â, One food blogger told us she listens to The Sporkful and would be honored to be on the show -- but she didn’t want to talk about a topic that might “flame the fires that still burn in this country." It’s interesting because after going through this process of talking to all these people it's like I found myself with each conversation dreading the conversations more and more. They would think that seems like the logical place to go. My God, let's just move on. Rum was created by enslaved Africans from the by-products of sugar production and then hijacked by white colonists as a commodity to export. So marketers in New York create products and movies and books that remind white people in the north of a time when life was easy and affluent, when they were in their rightful place above black people. Some even enjoy it. That's the thing that I think people don't really want to be responsible for when they get questioned about this, because they don't want to identify what that thing is. We reached out multiple times to Bigelow Tea, who make that Plantation Mint flavor, but they declined to comment. D. Cotton. Now brands are removing this word. It's Plantation." What do they think they're communicating when they use the word. Whether internationally (Aunt Jemima, Uncle Ben’s) or locally (Plantation Rum, Ecaf Spices), many brands are getting a rehaul. This is a good beat that you’ve stumbled into here Osayi. She’s white, and she’s the author of Dreaming of Dixie: How the South Was Created in American Popular Culture.Â. She emails the company that makes it – it’s a cognac house in France called Maison Ferrand. Scarlet and all that kind of stuff.Â. an ordinance of the city council of the city of mission, texas granting a conditional use permit for the sale & on-site consumption of alcoholic beverages – lada (52) bar & grill, 4001 s. shry road, ste. ... What threatened the plantation owners was not … I haven't been to the rum bar yet, I just checked in, but they claim this particular bar has vintages of rum that aren't available any place else in the world, so I'm going to investigate this. $20. Osayi sends Dan out on a mission to talk to other white people in the food world – restaurant owners, recipes writers, bloggers, cookbook authors – who use the word plantation in their food branding. That plantation branding that both professors talked about, you still see plenty of it today. Despite that association, Professor Williams Forson can see why plantation branding has been so effective. The word “plantation” has been used in food branding to conjure images of a romanticized American South. ST. JOHN’S, Antigua — Dorbrene O’Marde paced back and forth, trying to quash evil spirits. Right now I think being black is the way to go. Additional editing and production on this episode by Osayi Endolyn, Claire Rowlinson, Oluwakemi Aladesuyi, Nick Jones, Harry Huggins, and Bri Moore. So in all this noise, you might have missed a story from the world of alcohol: “Plantation Rum” is changing its name. That's where people I think often times really don't want to look, because you have to be super accountable for the things that you're complicit in and the information that you have avoided receiving for a very long time. What do you think they think they're doing when they put that word there? 460-461. Osayi was glad the conversation was happening, but one big thing about that Vice piece frustrated her: White people need to be talking to more about white people about this. By the same token I don't like Scarlett O'Hara movie version of the romance of it either. This show is produced by me, along with Senior Producer Anne Saini and Associate Producer Ngofeen Mputubwele Our editor is Peter Clowney. I mean, I grew up in a white town. You could make a strong argument that the kitchen at Monticello was the most influential in American history. I think that the hope is that this will reveal something about whiteness.Â. The slaves were taken to the Caribbean and America to work on plantations, where they were exchanged for sugar, cotton, spices and rum. The word plantation is connected to historical racism and inequality across the world, especially in America, where plantation farms were known as places of slavery and the oppression and exploitation of black people. And as another historian we spoke with pointed out, there are black Americans who don't care about Plantation imagery. More than 3,000 Jews fought for the slaveholders in the Civil War, and a Jewish owner of a 140-slave plantation, Judah P. Benjamin, was secretary of state for the Confederacy. In last week’s show, she talks about what changed her mind, rejects the idea that baking is stiff and stuffy, and reveals her little-known background in French culinary history. We follow up on our 2019 episode on this topic to discuss. Boy who knows. I'm not as interested in the conversation of stop using the word, as I am interested in the investigation of why the word keeps appearing. The Caribbean rum outfit, owned by the Maison Ferrand brand, acknowledges that the old name taps into slavery and the unfair conditions that existed on countless farms or plantations. I'm in Paris. Probably Gone with the Wind from that perspective. I have to read between the lines, I have to watch movies that make me really uncomfortable. From such a young age, pictures we see in storybooks. I've never experienced that in my life. I don't like the implication that plantation means something negative. Lots of food brands emerged around this time that portrayed black Americans in the role of servants, from Longwood Plantation brand syrup to Uncle Ben’s. She’s becoming more and more curious – Not only about how it got its name, but about how it tastes. This is a great budget rum for people who don’t want to sacrifice taste just because money’s a little tight. How is it possible that I would have gone 40-ish years living in America without having any… without having that image challenge or questioned? Plantation definition is - a usually large group of plants and especially trees under cultivation. I have never seen that with my own eyes. This one was especially effective and has bored itself deep into the public consciousness. I think it is a logical place to go, but I don't want to push you there out of the shame. Fuck." and I pointed to the item on the menu. Commercial Window Covering Specialists since 1995. And it’s just healthy to have a perspective. Although little Caribbean rum entered European markets at the end of the 17th century, rum distilling helped supplement sugar plantation revenues.